• 作者: dfmzhu
• 来源: 佛山展翅调酒师学
• 日期: 2015-03-05
• 浏览次数: 4227 次

1. 即使是“皮斯科”一词的起源都存在争议。
根据提问对象的不同，皮斯科的名字起源也五花八门：诞生地、秘鲁伊卡大区的某个印第安部落、用于储存和运输它的陶罐或是盖丘亚印第安语中的“鸟”一词。各种说法令人迷惑。而诞生地一说亦十分混乱：秘鲁境内有叫皮斯科的城市、地区、省份、河流及山谷⋯⋯这个谜题可能有多个正确答案。至于陶罐一说，它们在盖丘亚语中叫做皮斯科（意思为“鸟儿”），而在西班牙语中则叫做博蒂哈。最后，尽管智利北部有座小镇也叫皮斯科，但它是根据酒命名的，而不是相反。1936年，位于智利艾尔基谷皮斯科产区的拉乌尼翁更名为皮斯科艾尔基。但人们相信这是一次商业炒作，同时也是为了保护智利皮斯科的合法性。

1. Even the etymology of the word “pisco” is debated.
Depending who you ask, pisco takes it name from any number of sources: its place of origin, an Indian tribe from the Ica region in Peru, the ceramic jars used to store and transport the stuff, or the word for “bird” in the Quechua Indian language. Confusion reigns. Even the place of origin theory is messy: Peru has a city, district, province, river and valley… all called Pisco. This riddle could have many right answers. Regarding the jars, in Quechua they are piskos (literally “birds”) while in Spanish they are botijas. Finally, while northern Chile also has a town named Pisco, it is named after the drink, not vice versa. In 1936, La Unión, in Chile’s pisco-producing Elqui Valley, renamed itself Pisco Elqui. But this is believed to be a marketing stunt and legal ploy to protect Chile’s right to call its product “pisco”.

2. 皮斯科自称是美洲最古老的烈酒，但这并不正确。
卡莎萨实际上比皮斯科古老得多。不过，皮斯科的确有几百年历史，而且从诞生之初起便是精心酿制——这在美洲是独一无二的。卡莎萨是甘蔗生产的副产品，在很长一段时间里都品质粗糙，而且主要供奴隶们饮用，而创造了皮斯科的耶稣会会士们是当时的葡萄种植、酿酒及蒸馏专家。因此，我们可以说皮斯科是美洲第一款品质稳定的烈酒，但却不是最古老的烈酒。

2. Pisco is not, as claimed, the oldest spirit from the Americas.
Cachaça, in fact, is much older than pisco. Still, it’s true the spirit has several hundred years of history and is unique in the Americas in being carefully crafted right from the beginning of its production. Unlike cachaça, which developed as a sideline of sugar production, and for a long time was rough and drunk mostly by slaves, the Jesuit monks involved in the development of pisco were the experts of their day in viniculture, wine making and distillation. So while it might be fair to call pisco the first spirit of any consistent quality produced in the Americas – it was not the first.

3. 智利声称自己是皮斯科原产地，但这一说法在很大程度上不被承认。
在皮斯科的“国籍”之争中，秘鲁在大多数问题上都战胜了智利。地理造成了混乱。在智利和秘鲁成为麻烦邻居前，它们都属于秘鲁总督区——这片面积巨大的西班牙殖民地覆盖了南美洲大部分区域，行政机关设在利马。1880年代，这两个新独立的国家陷入战争，最后智利夺取了一部分秘鲁领土，包括伊基克港——根据某些（不被采信的）的说法，这里是皮斯科酸酒的诞生地。不过，最早的皮斯科产地无疑是在如今的秘鲁境内，尤其是阿雷基帕、利马、库斯科和阿亚库乔。最近，作为中立仲裁者的欧洲委员会认定秘鲁是皮斯科原产地。

3. Chile’s claim as the original home of pisco has been largely discredited.
Peru can claim victory on most fronts in its squabble with Chile as to who “owns” pisco. Geography muddies the debate. Before Chile and Peru became unruly neighbours they belonged to the Viceroyalty of Peru – a giant Spanish colony administered from Lima that stretched across most of South America. The inhabitants of the Viceroyalty distilled pisco wherever they grew grapes and colonial vineyards existed in both Chile and Peru. In the 1880s, the two newly independent nations fought a war that ended with Chile grabbing Peruvian territory, including the port of Iquique – the so-called birthplace of the Pisco Sour, according to some (discredited) accounts. However, the earliest pisco was undoubtedly distilled in what is now modern Peru – specifically Arequipa, Lima, Cuzco and Ayacucho. As a neutral umpire, the European Commission recently recognised pisco as being of Peruvian origin.

4. 秘鲁严格监控皮斯科生产。
在秘鲁，皮斯科生产仅限在特定的原产地区域进行，主要是利马南部的肥沃山谷。它可以使用八个葡萄品种，分别是卡班图、黑克里奥拉、莫拉、意大利、莫斯卡特、阿比拉、特浓迪和尤维娜。纯葡萄汁发酵之后小批量蒸馏至装瓶酒精度。蒸馏完毕后，酒液需在无反应容器中陈放至少三个月。尽管传统做法是用陶罐陈放，现代酿酒商都会采用水泥、不锈钢或塑料材质的大型储罐。严禁木桶陈年，因为木桶具有反应性，会对风味和色泽产生影响。最后生产出来的酒饱含纯净的葡萄风味，不使用任何的添加剂（也包括糖）。

4. Peru closely regulates the production of pisco.
In Peru, pisco production is limited to a specific geographic designation of origin, basically comprising the fertile coastal valleys south of Lima. Eight grape varieties can be used: quebranta, negra criolla, molar, italia, muscatel, albilla, torontel and uvina. The spirit must be batch-distilled to final proof, from a wash fermented solely from grape juice. After distillation the spirit must be rested for a minimum of three months in non-reactive vessels. Although resting traditionally employed ceramic jars, the modern practice is to use large tanks of concrete, stainless steel, or plastic. Barrel ageing is prohibited since barrels are reactive and will influence taste and colour. The result is a spirit with a pure flavour of grapes, free from additives such as sugar.

5. 秘鲁皮斯科分为三类。
根据秘鲁法规，纯皮斯科以单一葡萄品种酿造。八个被认可的葡萄品种分为芳香型和无香型。前者包括阿比拉、意大利、莫斯卡特和特浓迪，后者包括卡班图（最常见）、莫拉、黑克里奥拉和尤维娜。混合皮斯科以芳香葡萄和无香葡萄混酿而成。原汁皮斯科的风格更为浓郁，由“绿色”葡萄汁蒸馏而来——也就是说葡萄汁未经完全发酵。常用来调酒的是以强劲葡萄为原料的混合皮斯科或纯皮斯科——卡班图是最受欢迎的。芳香葡萄酿造的皮斯科和原汁皮斯科则适合纯饮。

5. There are three classifications of pisco in Peru.
Under Peruvian regulations pisco puro comes from a single grape variety. The eight permitted varieties are evenly split between aromatic and non-aromatic. The former are albilla, italia, muscatel and torontel while the non-aromatics are quebranta (the most popular), molar, negra criolla and uvina. Pisco acholado indicates a blend of both aromatic and non-aromatic grapes. Pisco musto verde is a richer pisco distilled from a must that remains “green” – in other words, incompletely fermented. Conventional wisdom is to make cocktails from acholado or a pisco puro based on robust grapes – quebranta is the favourite. Aromatic varieties and musto verde tend to be savoured straight.

6. 传统皮斯科陈年类似于中国白酒。
和中国白酒坛一样，多孔渗水的陶制博蒂哈为氧化创造了便利条件，同时又没有木桶陈年带来的木头味。不过，使用博蒂哈的传统正在慢慢消亡。

6. Traditional pisco ageing has parallels with Chinese spirits.
Like Chinese wine jars, porous clay botijas allow oxidation without the wood flavours that accompany barrel ageing. Still, the use of botijas is a fading tradition.

7. 国，但与智利相比，它的皮斯科总产量相形见绌。
得益于自身庞大的葡萄酒产业，智利的皮斯科产量比秘鲁高八倍。智利人口比秘鲁少得多，但皮斯科消耗量却更高。智利的法规比秘鲁宽松，生产的皮斯科风格可以更清淡。酿酒商拥有更多的生产自由，只要最后的产品带葡萄味就行了。因此，智利皮斯科一般连续蒸馏至高酒精度，葡萄汁蒸馏而成的原浆常常会混入较廉价的酒液。由于生产成本较低，智利皮斯科成为了价格实惠的日常酒饮。与秘鲁不同的是，智利还允许木桶陈年，从而酿造出适合品鉴的高端陈酿皮斯科。

7. Peru might “own” pisco but its total production is dwarfed by Chile’s.
Aided by an enormous wine industry, Chilean pisco production exceeds that of Peru by seven times. Chilean consumption is also higher despite its much smaller population. Chile’s regulations are looser than Peru’s and permit a lighter drink. Producers have considerable leeway provided the final spirit has the flavour of grapes. Hence Chilean pisco tends to use continuous distillation to high proof, and the grape distillate is often cut with cheaper sources of alcohol. Lower production costs make Chilean pisco an affordable, everyday drink. Unlike in Peru, Chile also permits barrel ageing to create, premium, age-stated sipping pisco.

8. 皮斯科不是格拉帕的南美版。
尽管两者均为无色葡萄白兰地，但格拉帕的原料是果渣（葡萄酒酿造过程中葡萄榨汁残留的果皮和籽），而皮斯科的原料则是葡萄汁。格拉帕是一种副产品，但皮斯科是一门单独的地方性酿酒学——至少在秘鲁是如此。去秘鲁超市看一看就明白了：货架上的皮斯科种类远远超过葡萄酒。

8. Pisco is not a South American version of grappa.
Although both are clear grape brandies, grappa is made from pomace (the pressed grape skins and seeds discarded by wine makers), while pisco is made from juice. Grappa is a by-product while pisco, at least in Peru, is the whole purpose of local viniculture. The point becomes clear if you check out a Peruvian supermarket – the range of pisco far exceeds that of wine.

9. 在秘鲁，一瓶皮斯科通常包含六到八公斤葡萄的蒸馏精华。
对未经完全发酵的原汁皮斯科而言，这一数量高达十二公斤。

9. In Peru, a single bottle of pisco typically contains the distilled essence of six to eight kilograms of grapes.
For musto verde styles, in which the must is not fully fermented, this increases to around 12 kilograms.

10. 除了皮斯科酸酒，秘鲁和智利还有许多传统喝法。
最流行的莫过于皮斯科乐，也就是加了一个青柠角的皮斯科兑可口可乐。这款酒既简单又可口，在智利的人气要高于秘鲁。秘鲁的版本一般会用到印加可乐——类似于佳得乐的甜腻软饮。更经典的喝法是大船长鸡尾酒，也就是以皮斯科为基酒的曼哈顿。与曼哈顿不同的是，它并不总是冰凉的。有人觉得室温能更好地体现皮斯科风味。

10. Both Peru and Chile have many traditional serves beyond the pisco sour.
King among these is the Piscola, a simple mix of pisco and Coca-Cola served with a lime wedge. Deliciously simple, this drink is far more popular in Chile than Peru. The Peruvian version often uses Inca Cola – an icky-sweet soft drink reminiscent of Gatorade. For something more classic try the El Capitán, a Manhattan made with pisco. Unlike a Manhattan, though, the drink is not always iced. Some feel the pisco’s flavours are better showcased at room temperature.

11. 皮斯科有极大的调酒潜力，等待你去挖掘。
对寻找灵感的创意调酒师而言，将提基经典作为考量对象并不算太坏，比如说雾中小艇。这款粗犷鸡尾酒的原料包括朗姆酒、金酒、雪莉酒、柑橘类水果和杏仁糖浆，而皮斯科能够为它带来神奇的活力，从而打造出一款平衡又富有魅力的新酒饮。

11. Pisco has great untapped potential in cocktails.
Creative bartenders seeking inspiration can do worse than looking to tiki classics such as, say, the Fogcutter. Pisco provides the magic that animates this raucous mix of rum, gin, sherry, citrus and orgeat, somehow producing a coherent and charismatic drinking companion.

12. 皮斯科是加州淘金热的经典酒饮。
在我们的想象中，美国西部拓荒者们似乎终日与威士忌为伍，但直到1869年太平洋铁路建成之前，加利福尼亚人沿着海岸去秘鲁买皮斯科更方便——而不是去大陆另一头的肯塔基或费城买威士忌。因此，那些发了横财的淘金工人很可能会进城大喝一顿皮斯科。皮斯科潘趣是继皮斯科酸酒之后的最著名的皮斯科鸡尾酒，它诞生在旧金山也就不足为奇了。

12. Pisco was the classic drink of the Californian gold rush.
Although we tend to imagine the pioneers of the American West spending their days soaked in whiskey, before the completion of the Pacific Railroad in 1869 Californians found it easier to buy pisco from down the coast in Peru than whiskey from Kentucky or Pennsylvania – way over on the other side of the continent. Thus, the stereotypical gold prospector who had struck it rich probably headed into town for a pisco binge. It is not surprising that the Pisco Punch, that other famous pisco drink after the Pisco Sour, originated in San Francisco.

13. 秘鲁和智利都设立了特别的国酒节。
秘鲁人每年举办两次官方皮斯科狂欢活动：先是二月第一个周六举行的全国皮斯科酸酒节，接着是七月第四个周日举行的全国皮斯科节。智利则更为矜持，仅将每年的5月15日定为全国皮斯科节。

13. Both Peru and Chile have set aside special days in honour of their national drink.
Peruvians hold two official pisco parties each year. The first Saturday in February is National Pisco Sour Day, while the fourth Sunday of July is National Pisco Day. Chile is more restrained, limiting the festivities to National Pisco Day on May 15.

14. 秘鲁和智利的“皮斯科之争”仍然十分紧张。
2007年，智利提出共享皮斯科一词并合作推广，遭到秘鲁拒绝。智利的官方立场是承认皮斯科诞生于秘鲁，但坚持本国享有使用该词的权利——考虑到智利漫长的生产历史，这一要求可谓是合理的。两国都禁止从对方国家进口皮斯科。秘鲁对禁令的态度更严肃，而智利实际上是秘鲁皮斯科的主要市场——尽管是以“白兰地”的名义进口的。智利鉴赏家们在尽情享用秘鲁佳酿，智利政府也承认了皮斯科的秘鲁国籍，或许秘鲁是时候缓和一下情绪、打开分享之门了？

14. Tensions remain high in the “pisco war” between Peru and Chile.
In 2007 Peru rejected a Chilean offer to share the term pisco and cooperate on promotion. The official Chilean position recognises pisco’s Peruvian origins but insists on Chile’s right to use the term – reasonable given Chile’s long production history. Each country bans the import of the other’s product. Peru is more serious about the ban, though, while Chile is in fact a major market for Peruvian pisco – imported as “brandy”. With Chilean connoisseurs sipping Peruvian juice and the Chilean government accepting Peru as pisco’s daddy, perhaps it is time Peru chilled out and shared its toys?